South Africans have always been very keen on their fleshpots. Not the nudey bars (although they, too, have their appeal) but those restaurants which serve flesh, and lots of it.

The Local Grill may pay homage to meat in all marvellous guises but its far removed from the neighbourhood steakhouse of old. The decor is up-to-date and fairly minimalist when compared to those dark, and heavily wooded eateries of yesteryear.

The chairs are moulded plastic but probably cost more than many a dining-room suite. Theres a trendy mix of steel, wood and plastic with striking black and white menu boards on the wall.

The Local Grill is the brainchild of Linger Longer-trained Steven Maresch and Greg McLeroth. But both men are serious about their product. Apparently they did a tasting of 12 brands of meat before settling on what they believe are the top two producers in this country, Chalmar and Greenfields.

The first produce superior grain-fed, stress-free (we have to take their word for it!) cattle in Bapsfontein while the latter is from a free-range organic farm in Mooi River. The menu boards state how long the meat has been aged and its price. The Chalmar fillet had been aged for 29 days and cost R76 for 200g.

By comparison, the Greenfields fillet had been hung for 24 days and came in at R71 for the same weight. The menu is printed daily and the boards are changed to reflect current market prices. We ordered one of each to do our own taste comparison as well as a Chalmar rump. The flesh arrives unadorned on a white plate.

It's what you've come here to eat and there's nothing to distract it. You can have your meat rubbed with a house blend of herbs and spices, buttered, peppered or plain. The skin-on-fries, pap, polenta, mash with beef jus or vegetables are served separately as are the sauces, which are made fresh to order for around R15.

You can choose from the old favourites like mushroom, garlic and peppercorn as well as the more exotic three-mustard and cognac, cranberry and port jus or blue cheese and pepperdew. The fillets looked virtually the same when they arrived.

However, there was a definite difference in taste, although both were superb. The Greenfields was slightly sweeter but the Chalmar won by a short length as it was more flavoursome. The flesh was truly superb and redolent with taste; some of the best meat I've eaten for ages.

In fact, we didn't really need the very good homemade sauces, which if anything are a slight distraction. Theres a good selection of starters and salads including fresh Belon oysters.

Theres also oxtail (Chalmar), ribs, Karoo lamb cutlets and kudu medallions for the true carnivores. There are also a few fish and chicken dishes as well as a veg stack or polenta hut served with wild mushrooms and a gorgonzola and tomato coulis for the vegetarians.

Not that I saw any at this establishment, meat is deservedly the king. Theres a fairly comprehensive winelist with something for all budgets.

Last year's Van Loveren Sauvignon Blanc will set you back R60 while the same vintage French Cote de Gascogne Chenin Blanc is R65. The Glen Carlou Chardonnay 2004 is R155. The 2002 Warwick Trilogy is R230 and the French Rothschild Chateau Malmaison Bordeaux blend R335. In the bargain bin section of the menu you'll find the Graham Beck Shiraz 2003 at R170.

If you're rather blase about wine tastings, you can now embark on sampling flesh. It tastes good and certainly gives you something to talk about. Average price of a three-course meal: R120.

Nicol Way Shopping Centre, Cnr William Nicol and Republic Road, Hurlingham Manor. Tel 011 886 8866. Open for lunch, Monday to Friday, and dinner, Monday to Saturday. BYO: R30 for white and R35 for red.

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