Rated 4? Stars, the winning wine is unusual for several reasons: its style is a departure from the bolder, more "masculine" expressions that usually garner kudos, it is bottled under screwcap, and it fended off worthy contenders from top Chenin producers, some of whom have won in previous years.

The Spier Private Collection 2004 created much debate among the judges before being crowned champion for 2006. It was ranked best on the day by two of the tasters and was among another's favourites, whereas two on the panel of five were leaning in favour of the Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 2005 when it came down to choosing one or another.

"In the final line-up of eight, the quality was incredibly even, with only nuances separating the wines," said chairman Michael Fridjhon.

"With quality a given among the final two, the only way to break the deadlock was for stylistic preferences to come into play. In 2005 a blockbuster; in 2006 something more arthouse, to put it in movie parlance."

The move to create a crisp, delicate, elegant wine was deliberate, says winemaker Visser.

"People in the industry had been criticising the Challenge for rewarding heavier wines, so I made my wine in a drier, more elegant French style, but with a definite South African fruit focus," she said.

Wine lovers will be able to sample a selection of the top wines from this Chenin Blanc Challenge at public tastings to be held in Cape Town and Johannesburg on 27 February and 3 March respectively.

Tasting tickets are R100 per person and can be booked by telephoning 0860 100 204 or emailing smart@rsp.co.za. Full details are available on the WINE magazine website.